A little investment of money and time can save for you more than three thousand $s per year by cutting the cost of your utility bills.
Following are the some points that would guide you to Invest about $1,500 in insulation and maintenance of installations and you will get over twice that in energy savings the first year.
Call for Service
Cost: $100 to $200 per unit a year
Payback: $300 to $500 a year
Cleaning your furnace's oil burners or removing scale from gas units, changing filters and checking refrigerant levels in the air-conditioning system are not exactly do-it-yourself jobs. You'll need some help from the professionals.
For every year that you fail to schedule service for your furnace (gas or oil), you'll wind up using 5% more heating fuel because of all the gunky buildup, and you'll pay 10% to 30% extra for neglecting your central air conditioning.
Insulate Your Attic
Cost: $500 to $1,000
Payback: $500 to $1,000 a year
"The attic floor is the house's most important barrier to heat loss because heat rises," says Charley Cormany, project manager at Renu, a home energy performance contractor in San Anselmo, Calif.
The thickness of the insulation between joists in the unfinished floor should be at least 10 to 12 inches. If it isn't, lay on additional rolls, or "batts."
Cover the Ducts
Cost: $50 to $250
Payback: $500 to $1,500 a year
Inspect heating and cooling ducts in the attic, basement and closets. If you find exposed metal ducts, cover the seams with foil tape to plug any leaks.
Then cover the entire duct with insulation (such as Thermwell Self- Adhesive Foil/Foam Duct Insulation) and you can save as much as 50% on heating and cooling costs.
Time Settings for Heat
Cost: $40
Payback: $500 a year
Install a programmable thermostat :
You can set it to lower the heat automatically just after you've gone to bed and to warm up the house before the alarm clock rings so that you won't have to put on an overcoat when you wake up.
If you lower the thermostat by 7° from the normal daytime temperature, you'll knock 10% off your heating costs. Connecting the unit is a (warm) breeze; you merely unscrew the low-voltage wires and attach them to the new thermostat.
Seal Those Cracks
Cost: $15
Payback: $500 a year
If your attic or basement is unfinished, use a can of expanding foam insulation (such as Great Stuff Insulating Foam, $5 at deerso.com) to seal holes in the attic floorboards and basement ceilings.
That could reduce heating and cooling costs by about 10%. "Electricians and plumbers turn ceilings and floors into Swiss cheese when they run their pipes and wires," says Cormany.
You may also see gaps around the chimney or around recessed lighting. Ask at the home center for heat-resistant insulation for those spots.
Wrap Your Water Heater
Cost: $40
Payback: $100 a year
Drape a water-heater blanket - really nothing more than an overcoat - around your tank to keep heat from leaking away.
Also, wrap pipe insulation around the first five feet of both the hot-water outlet pipe and the cold-water pipe leading into the tank. You can find the stuff at any hardware or plumbing-supply store.
Taking these measures will knock as much as 15% off the unit's operating costs in utilities bills.
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How To Stop Drafts and Save On Energy Bills
Imagine leaving a window open all winter long -- the heat loss, cold drafts and wasted energy! If your home has a folding pull-down attic stair, a whole house fan, a fireplace or clothes dryer, that may be just what is occurring in your home every day.
Drafts from these often overlooked holes waste energy and cost you big in the form of higher energy bills.
Drafts are the largest source of heating and cooling loss in the home. Drafts occur through the small cracks around doors, windows, pipes, etc. Most homeowners are well aware of the benefits that caulk and weather-stripping provide to minimize energy loss and drafts.
But what can you do about drafts from the four largest “holes” in your home -- the folding attic stair, the whole house fan, the fireplace and the clothes dryer? Here are some tips and techniques that can easily, quickly and inexpensively seal and insulate these holes.
Attic Stairs
When attic stairs are installed, a large hole (approximately 10 square feet) is created in your ceiling. The ceiling and insulation that were there have to be removed, leaving only a thin, unsealed, sheet of plywood.
Your attic space is ventilated directly to the outdoors. In the winter, the attic space can be very cold, and in the summer it can be very hot. And what is separating your conditioned house from your unconditioned attic? That thin sheet of plywood.
Often a gap can be observed around the perimeter of the attic door. Try this yourself: at night, turn on the attic light and shut the attic stairway door -- do you see any light coming through? If you do, heated and air-conditioned air is leaking out of these large gaps in your home 24-hours a day. This is like leaving a window or skylight open all year ‘round.
An easy, low-cost solution to this problem is to add an insulated attic stair cover. An attic stair cover seals the stairs, stopping drafts and energy loss. Add the desired amount of insulation over the cover to restore the insulation removed from the ceiling.
Whole House Fans and Air Conditioning Vents
Much like attic stairs above, when whole house fans are installed, a large hole (up to 16 square feet or larger) is created in your ceiling. The ceiling and insulation that were there have to be removed, leaving only the drafty ceiling shutter between you and the outdoors.
An easy, low-cost solution to this problem is to add a whole house fan shutter seal. Made from white textured flexible insulation, the shutter seal is installed over the ceiling shutter, secured with Velcro, and trimmed to fit. The shutter seal can also be used to seal and insulate air conditioning vents, and is easily removed when desired.
Fireplaces
Sixty-five percent, or over 100 million homes, in North America are constructed with wood or gas burning fireplaces. Unfortunately there are negative side effects that the fireplace brings to a home, especially during the winter heating season. Fireplaces are energy losers.
Researchers have studied this to determine the amount of heat loss through a fireplace, and the results are amazing. One research study showed that an open damper on an unused fireplace in a well-insulated house can raise overall heating-energy consumption by 30 percent.
A recent study showed that for many consumers, their heating bills may be more than $500 higher per winter due to the drafts and wasted energy caused by fireplaces.
Why does a home with a fireplace have higher energy bills? Your chimney is an opening that leads directly outdoors -- just like an open window. Even if the damper is shut, it is not air-tight. Glass doors don’t stop the drafts either. The fireplace is like a giant straw sucking your expensive heated or air-conditioned air right out of your house!
An easy, low-cost solution to this problem is to add a Fireplace Plug to your fireplace. Available from Battic Door, a company known for their energy conservation products, the Fireplace Plug is an inflatable pillow that seals the fireplace damper, eliminating drafts, odors, and noise. The pillow is removed whenever the fireplace is used, then reinserted after.
Clothes Dryer Exhaust Ducts
In many homes, the room with the clothes dryer is the coldest room in the house. Your clothes dryer is connected to an exhaust duct that is open to the outdoors. In the winter, cold drafts in through the duct, through your dryer and into your house.
Dryer vents use a sheet-metal flapper to try to reduce these drafts. This is very primitive technology that does not provide a positive seal to stop the drafts. Compounding the problem is that over time, lint clogs the flapper valve causing it to stay open.
An easy, low-cost solution to this problem is to add a dryer vent seal. This will reduce unwanted drafts, and also keeps out pests, bees and rodents. The vent will remain closed unless the dryer is in use. When the dryer is in use, a floating shuttle rises to allow warm air, lint and moisture to escape.
For more information on Battic Door’s energy conservation solutions and products for your home, visit www.batticdoor.com or, to request a free catalog, send a self-addressed stamped envelope to P.O. Box 15, Mansfield, MA 02048.
Mark D. Tyrol is a Professional Engineer specializing in cause and origin of construction defects. He developed several residential energy conservation products including an attic stair cover and an attic access door, and is the US distributor of the fireplace plug. To learn more visit www.batticdoor.com
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